Ahilya Fort, in the central Indian town of Maheshwar, sits high above the sacred river Narmada. Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar ruled here from 1765 to 1796 and built Ahilya Wada, her personal residences, offices, and darbaar audience hall, within the fort.
In the year 2000, Prince Richard Holkar, her descendant and son of the last Maharaja of Indore, converted his home in Ahilya Wada into a guest residence, today known around the world as the Ahilya Fort Hotel.
The Fort Hotel has 19 rooms of character, set in six buildings of the 18th century, with modern amenities and comforts. Guests stroll through 3 acres of courtyards, fountains, and gardens that link areas within the Wada. It is easy to find a secluded spot to read a book, sip some tea, or just watch the butterflies flutter by.
NB: Many of their rooms are accessed via a flight of 10-15 steps, however ground floor rooms are available on request.
The hotel is well located to explore the highlights of Maheshwar, including its bustling village markets and riverside complex of temples and cenotaphs.
The rooms are scattered among the 18th-century, half-timbered buildings set around shady courtyards. There are plenty of nooks to hide away with a book, a lovely large pool and a vegetable garden that is a work of art. Sitting areas contain carefully curated family heirlooms and artefacts and are patrolled by the owner’s beloved pugs. The whole effect is of staying in the home of an aristrocratic relative, one with unusually good taste.
Amenities and more
The long-standing staff are a delight to engage with and make every guest feel cossetted. They organise complimentary boat rides on the river and tours of the Rehwa Society’s textile workshop and school. At sunset, a fully stocked cocktail bar appears on the terrace (drinks are complimentary). There’s also a tailoring studio, a traditional masseur, a well-stocked library and bicycles to explore the countryside.
Dine in Royal style
Lunches are generally European with cold soups, salads, grilled vegetables and pasta. Dinners are Indian and candlelit; the venue moving each night to another magical location in the gardens. Guests are encouraged to dine with others at tables for six, but you can elect to eat alone. House specialities include Kashmiri Dogra court duck in pomegranate, beef with green chilli, and aubergine in a tamarind yoghurt. Unlimited cocktails, wine and beer (Indian brands) are included in the room cost.
Breakfast breads and pastries are excellent (all baked on site) and the prince makes the jams himself. Maheshwari scrambled eggs and traditional poha (rice lightly fried with nuts and fruits) are highly recommended.
Boating into the sunset
Included in your stay is a not-to-be-missed boat ride to Baneshwar Temple, considered to be the Centre of the Universe. Watch the sun setting as you glide down the Narmada on a hand-poled boat to the Temple. Have a cup of tea and then release diyas as an offering to the River.
A 20-minute boat ride across the Narmada River are the two sleepy villages of Naodatodi and Bothu, very much in contrast to bustling Maheshwar town. Guests can enjoy a pleasant 45 minute walk through a typical village of the region and its fields, and your boat can collect you at the end of the walk. Trail bikes are also available.
How to get there
By Air
The closest airport to the Ahilya Fort hotel is the Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar airport in Indore (IDR). From the airport it is approximately a two hour car journey (95 km) on excellent roads to reach the hotel. The airport is well connected by daily flights to most major cities in India. Indore airport does not currently feature flights to or from international destinations.
By Train
Our closest major railway station is in Indore, which is connected to most major railway lines. From the railway station it is approximately a two hour car journey (96 km) on excellent roads to reach the hotel. The Barwah station is about 45 km away, but is not very well connected.
By Road
Maheshwar is about a half hour drive off the Mumbai – Agra highway (AH47). It is approximately a 10 hour drive (514 km) from Mumbai to Maheshwar, and a 17 hour road journey (942 km) from New Delhi to Maheshwar.
Location & contact
Rajwada, Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar, MP – 451224